Bali District > DENPASAR.

From just 15,000 inhabitants sixty years ago, the city population has expanded dramatically to 400,000, plus another 100,000 residents of Kuta and Nusa Dua. Following he expansion of Ngurah Rai Airport, Denpasar became the Balinese capital in 1958. Perhaps the most interesting feature of Denpasar; is the way it combines tradition with modernity. The old provincial kingdoms and villages of the densely-populated rice plain ISO perforate the urban landscape.

While functioning very much in the traditional way, these villages in the city" still have their exclusive banjar neighborhood, dance groups, and temple festivals. These days, residents often make a living by renting rooms to newcomers from other regions of Bali and Indonesia.

Bali merges with Indonesia in Denpasar. The capital hosts all government administration offices as well as most universities and higher learning institutions, home to about 25,000 students. The local economy is geared to the needs of the nearby resorts of Sanur, Kuta and Nusa Dua, to where many residents commute daily. The dynamism of the local economy has brought not only Balinese from other parts of the island, but new-comers from all over the country to Denpasar investors, managers, even laborers. In Denpasar, ethnic homogeneity is a thing of the past.

Denpasar is not an easy place to visit. To see the old city, take a drive around the old villages of Kedaton, Sumerta, Tonja and especially Kesiman, whose brick-style shrines and gates are the simplest yet most beautiful in Bali. The Moaspait Temple on the road to Tabanan dates back to the 14th century, another marvel of brick architecture.

Other beautiful monuments include the temple and palace of Kesiman, Panambangan Temple (near Pernecutan palace), and Satria Temple, with its near-by bird market. Pernecutan, Kesiman and Badung (now the name of the nearby regency) were the three "united kingdoms" on the territory of Denpasar. Representing the modern tradition is Pura Jagatnatha, located in the heart of the city. It was built in the 70s to be the "territorial temple" of Denpasar, an open monument to modern Balinese Hinduism. Its main padmasana shrine, or seat of the "Supreme Siwa", embodies the new importance given to the concept of the One God in Balinese religion.

Located right next to lagatnatha temple, a visit to the Bali Museum is a must. It has the finest collections of Balinese antiquities. Of particular interest is the stylistic simplicity of the items in its 30's collection. The overly decorative Baroque style of Balinese art is clearly a recent historical import.

Denpasar is also where Bali displays its modern image. The Taman Budaya, the Arts Centre to the east of the city, is a complex dedicated to the preser-vation of Balinese culture. It contains the gigantic, Ksirarnawa amphitheater and a museum with an important collection of paintings and sculptures from the period of Balinese renewal, but no contem-porary art.

As a modern metropolis, Denpasar offers a range of shopping centres, restaurants and food centers. For those interested in textiles and handicraft, go to Pasar Badung and Pasar Kumbasari markets, located on either side of the Badung River in the old city centre. The new centre has moved south to the Sudirman and Diponegoro roads. Matahari, New Dewata Ayu, Tiara and Libi department stores, as well as Sudirman Mall, cater to all the needs of tourists and local customers, all at fixed prices. And for food, the south of Denpasar offers a complete range of restaurants.

Go to the three-story Central Market in the early morning, when it is a hive of activity. The whole of the first floor is devoted to meat and fish, dairy products, as well as flowers. If looking for spices, head for the second floor. Handicrafts are on the third.

There are several other markets well worth visiting in the capital city, including the Kunibasari, just across from the Central Market. For souvenir hunters, two streets, Jalan Gajah Mada and jalan Thamrin, have all you will need to remember your trip to Bali. Speciality and Art shops abound here and all over in Denpasar. Visit the Bird Market (Pasar Burung) for a closer look at several fine-feathered creatures, as well as cats, dogs, snakes and fish.

The night market (pasar malam) usually starts in the late afternoon and is a favorite for eating in a relaxed atmosphere as you watch the world go by. Make your way towards Sanur and you will find the Niti Mandala Civic Centre, home to several government offices, including the Bali Government Tourist Office. Interesting to note is the architectural style used in constructing the buildings, adapting age-old Balinese designs to the modern era.